These rolls, ostensibly a side, are front-and-center-of-the-table fare. Golden and glossy, gleaming with a brush of garlicky butter and dappled with dill, they simply won’t be ignored. Doubling down on the flavor agents with both fresh and dried versions of the garlic and dill proves that too much of a good thing is sometimes for the best, and these rich, eggy rolls handle it beautifully. Their soft and squishy nature is thanks in part to the inclusion of milk powder but mostly due to the use of tangzhong, a small portion of a cooked paste of sorts that keeps the rolls relentlessly springy and tender. For the loftiest rolls and most consistent results, use instant yeast and a digital scale to weigh your ingredients.